London Girl Loves: Cub

Here’s a first for me: London Girl Loves. These posts will be dedicated to the places I’ve been and have absolutely loved. First up is the latest venture by my favourite London bartender…

After months of saying we’d get down to Cub and multiple reluctantly cancelled reservations due to double booking ourselves, we finally made it when the other half booked a table for my birthday. (What a babe!)

Walking down Hoxton Street, you could easily miss Cub – East London’s hottest sustainable restaurant. The unassuming front is a stark contrast to the bright interior. Inside, striking yellow art-deco inspired seating is paired with white tabletops made from recycled yoghurt pots. With a focus on minimal waste, the restaurant is organised in the style of a chef’s table, with a single counter bar which spans the restaurant and booths lining the wall.


Cub is the brainchild of Douglas McMaster – chef of Brighton’s Silo and bartender Ryan Chetiyawardana aka Mr Lyan. Set in what was previously White Lyan, the restaurant is a swanky upgrade. Like its predecessor, the new restaurant in inspired by sustainability – this time with a primary focus on experimental food and drinks.

We opted for the weekly changing Set Menu. For £55 each, you can try the entire food menu with drinks pairings. We began with champagne. But not just any champagne. Our glass of Krug arrived with a sphere of jelly in the middle. We were told this was agar jelly with herbs and it was as if our welcome drink was also a dessert. A good dessert.


Next up was our first dish: Beetroot with Molasses, Lemon and Thyme. However, this wasn’t any old beetroot. It had been dehydrated then rehydrated. My first thought was “how ridiculous” but upon digging in, I discovered this was possibly the most delicious beetroot to ever cross my lips and my cynical thoughts soon faded.

Candy Beetroot, Molasses, Lemon Thyme

The menu continued to surprise us; Celeriac paired with blood orange was succulent and delicious, while Baby Shiitake Mushrooms served with artichoke and kelp were full of flavor. Bones aka bone broth soup with butter and fresh bread from a local supplier wasn’t as exciting as the other dishes but still a welcome winter warmer.

Baby Shiitake, Smoked Artichoke, Kelp
Celariac, Blood Orange, Monk’s Beard

Dessert came in the form of ice cream made from Barley Miso, Forced Rhubarb and Quinoa. Textures and tastes were exciting and carefully thought through.

Barley Miso, Forced Rhubarb, Quinoa

Unsurprisingly, Mr Lyan hasn’t skimped on the quality of drinks either. Vintage Scotch with Sake and Apple was served between two courses to cleanse the palette and a non-alcoholic drink garnished with Belvedere-infused Pear was tasty. Finally we finished with a Square Mile Coffee infused with cognac and a chili chocolate straw… it’s all in the detail.

Decana Pear, Belvedere, Gooseberry Shrub
Square Mile Coffee, Cognac, HMS

With first class service and a buzzing vibe, I couldn’t fault this meal at all. Each dish and drink was explained well and tasted delicious. We scoffed through six dishes and drinks – each one sent to our table at the perfect time: not too quickly or slowly.

By utilising often overlook ingredients, Doug McMaster and Mr Lyan have nailed the sustainable eating trend. For a meal that keeps you on your toes from start to finish, head to Cub.

Find Cub at 153 Hoxton St, London N1 6PJ (🚆 Hoxton)

London Girl ✖️

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