The Chippie: Six by Nico London Review

Between gorgeous plates and classic cocktails, I take my food and drink very seriously. Deciding between the two? It just can’t be done. One restaurant that also values of all aspects of a meal is Six by Nico. From Edinburgh to Manchester, the affordable fine dining spot is creating quite the stir. And when eponymous chef Nico Simeone set up shop in Fitzrovia for his latest outpost, I couldn’t resist an invite to finally put the experiential restaurant to the test.

With staff in face masks and hand sanitiser available, safety precautions were in full swing. Beyond that, the restaurant was decked out in the same modern furnishings, drop lighting and moody tones that make its sibling sites so recognisable. Starting off with a couple of snacks , it was sourdough bread paired with a shellfish butter and a crispy filo cannelloni stuffed with taramasalata and lemon gel then topped with keta caviar. Forget what you know about chip shop suppers, because this was on a whole new level.

On the drinks front, we started off with a fizzy aperitif; tangy in more ways than one with lemon, prosecco and sherbet resting on a wooden fork. After that, it was all things wine. We worked our way through the 6-course tasting menu and wine pairings which seemed like an endless conveyor belt of drool-worthy creations. As someone who’s not big on fish (I love seafood but not often keen on the usual aquatic animals), I was impressed. Standout dishes were the chips and cheese that had a mouthwatering foamy Parmesan pot and the steak pie which paired beef shin with burnt onion ketchup and dollops of mushroom.

Dessert was slicker than the average too, which the iconic Northern deep-fried Mars Bar given the Nico touch. Matched with an Italian vino, the deconstructed work of art was every bit as good as it looked. Not a sweet tooth kinda diner? I promise you will be after this.

If you’re looking for a post-lockdown pick that’s offering quality dishes, impressive drinks and theatrical service but without the hefty price tag, then Six by Nico should be on your list. I’m already thinking about my next visit…

The Chippie is available until Sunday 30th August, after which the next menu will be themed on Childhood. Book your table here.

The damage: 6-course tasting menu £35 pp, matching wines £33 pp, snacks £5 pp, aperitif £7.50 each

What we ate: 

  • Snacks – Sourdough Bread, with shellfish butter + filo cannelloni with taramasalata, lemon gel, keta caviar
  • Course 1 – CHIPS & CHEESE (Parmesan espuma + crisp, curry oil, brandade croquette, vinegar powder, brown sauce)
  • Course 2 – SCAMPI (Scrabster monkfish cheek, dill emulsion, gribiche, peas, beurre blanc)
  • Course 3 – STEAK PIE (Speyside beef shin, burnt onion ketchup, mushroom duxelle, ‘meaty salsa’)
  • Course 4 – FISH SUPPER (Shetland cod, pickled mussels, confit fennel, samphire, beer emulsion)
  • Course 5 – SMOKED SAUSAGE (trio of pork, apple, black pudding, salt baked celeriac, choucroute)
  • Course 6 – DEEP FRIED MARS BAR (chocolate cremaux, blood orange sorbet, cocoa nib)

What we drank: 

  • Aperitif – Seaside (Earl grey, lemon, samphire, prosecco, sherbert)
  • Course 2 – Casa de Vila Nova – Vinho Verde – Portugal
  • Course 3 – El Porvenir de Cafayate – Amauta Malbec – Argentina
  • Course 4 – Boutinot – La Fleur Solitaire’, Cotes du Rhone Blanc – France
  • Course 5 – Hanewald-Schwerdt – Spatburgunder (Pinot Noir) – Germany
  • Course 6 – Araldica – Palazzina, Moscato Passito – Italy

Dinner in pictures:

You’ll find Six by Nico at 41 Charlotte Street, Fitzrovia, London, W1T 1RR.

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